The Interview World

Over the last two decades, India’s wine industry has undergone a remarkable transformation. What began as a modest endeavour has now blossomed into a promising force in the global viticulture scene, powered by the trust of GI tag. Anchored in regions like Nashik, Bengaluru, and Pune, the Indian wine narrative marries tradition with modern innovation, driven by a growing middle class and evolving consumer tastes.

In the past, wine culture faced resistance in a country where beer and whiskey dominated the landscape. However, as urban lifestyles became more cosmopolitan and exposure to international wines increased, domestic vineyards began to thrive. Today, Indian wineries craft wines that reflect the country’s unique terroir, experimenting with varietals such as Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, and even the indigenous Bangalore Blue.

What truly distinguishes India is its adaptation to local conditions—warm climates and monsoon cycles—which demand specialized viticultural techniques. Indian wines now shine with tropical fruit notes that capture the essence of the land. Festivals like SulaFest and a growing enotourism sector are further elevating the industry, connecting enthusiasts with the intricate art of winemaking.

As Indian winemakers continue refining their craft, the country steps confidently onto the global stage. India’s wine industry is no longer in its infancy but poised for a vibrant and flavourful future.

In an exclusive interaction with The Interview World, Sandeep Arora, Founder and Director of Spirits and Rituals, sheds light on the evolution of the Indian wine industry. He discusses the importance of a Geographical Indication (GI) tag for wine brands, identifies regions in India producing whisky that deserve a GI tag, outlines the challenges involved in securing one, and shares what makes Mahua cocktails uniquely Indian. Here are the key insights from his conversation.

Q: Could you provide insights into the evolution of the Indian wine industry and its journey so far?

A: The journey of Indian wine began in the 1990s, catalyzed by the rise of new pubs and the entry of pioneering wineries like Sula and Fratelli. These early players helped shape the landscape of Indian wine, setting the stage for what was to come. In 2009, the Nasik Valley earned its Geographical Indication (GI) tag, a significant milestone in the industry. Unfortunately, despite this recognition, the region struggled to market itself effectively and connect with consumers, limiting its potential to capitalize on the GI tag.

The next notable development occurred in 2010 when Feni, a traditional cashew spirit from Goa, received its GI tag. This was a crucial step in recognizing indigenous spirits, showcasing how GI tags were beginning to shape the identity of Indian beverages. Yet, in the spirits category, Indian whiskeys, wine, gin, rum, and vodka have yet to pursue such recognition.

Among spirits, rum, whiskey, and potentially emerging drinks like Guevara are the closest to qualifying for a GI tag. Whiskey, in particular, stands out, having enjoyed nearly two decades of growing prominence. Since 2004, whiskey has solidified its place in India’s alcoholic beverage landscape, marking a significant milestone in the country’s spirits industry.

Q: What is the significance of a GI tag for a wine brand or category, and how does it impact the industry?

A: A Geographical Indication (GI) tag offers more than just recognition—it confers heritage, legacy, and a sense of permanence. It shapes an identity that reflects where you come from and the unique factors that elevate your product above others. For instance, in 1967, Champagne received a more defined appellation, followed by tequila in the 1970s. Once considered a casual drink, tequila has since evolved into a nuanced spirit. Today, some bottles fetch up to 16 lakhs, demonstrating the growing prestige of the category. The GI tag lends credibility, enhancing both the product’s image and its perceived value. Scotch whisky, a long-established icon, has benefitted from this recognition as well, reinforcing the significance of the GI framework.

In India, despite being the world’s largest consumer of whiskey, with nearly 350 million cases consumed annually, Indian whiskey has long struggled to gain the same respect as its global counterparts. For years, whisky drinkers in India would proudly declare, “I don’t drink whiskey; I drink Scotch.” This was followed by a brief fascination with Japanese whiskies and, more recently, bourbon. Unfortunately, Indian whiskey often found itself relegated to lower-tier shelves, absent from premium bars or high-end venues.

However, the landscape began to shift in 2004 when Amrut launched its whiskey in Scotland, marking the first significant breakthrough. This was followed by Paul John’s entry in 2012-2013, which further expanded the market. Today, there are approximately 150 variants of Indian whiskeys, offering an impressive range of styles, finishes, and flavours. With such diversity, a GI tag for Indian whiskey seems not only warranted but essential. It would bring recognition, respect, and further elevate India’s rich whiskey culture on the global stage.

Q: Which regions or states in India do you believe produce whisky that merits a GI tag?

A: It’s difficult to view this from a regional perspective just yet—perhaps in the next three years. At present, whisky discoveries are scattered across Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Rajasthan, and beyond. Two key factors drive this distribution. First, single vaults, which originate from a single discovery, may eventually seek a higher GI base.

For instance, one discovery could be in Himachal, another in Karnataka. Therefore, I’m not confident that regional distinctions will be meaningful at this stage. However, three years down the line, once Uttarakhand and Himachal establish themselves as legacy producers, we may be able to evaluate regional nuances. For now, the priority should be focusing on transforming Indian whisky into a distinct identity. This is the journey we need to embrace.

Q: What are the key challenges involved in securing a GI tag for Indian whisky, and how can they be addressed?

A: The challenge we face today is that Indian whisky must unite and establish a cohesive platform. Globally, age is still synonymous with premium quality in whisky, but Indian whiskies mature far faster and don’t follow traditional aging processes. If Indian whisky producers come together to define what makes their product unique—whether through taste, region, palette, cask, or even the reason why age isn’t as significant—then they’ll gain much greater recognition globally.

Additionally, the focus must be on quality and product-first, with branding taking a secondary role. While individual brands will develop over time, when uniting for an Indian GI, the industry must present itself as a unified entity, which, unfortunately, isn’t happening yet.

Take Mahua, for example. It stands a better chance of obtaining a GI certification. It should. The lessons from past missteps need to be applied to establish Mahua as a distinct Indian product. Once certified, Mahua could embrace its regional diversity—Mahua from Chhattisgarh, Maharashtra, Rajasthan, MP—each with its own unique culture and character. This could build a strong platform for Mahua, propelling it into the global spotlight as a powerful native spirit. But, for this transformation, the industry’s mindset must shift.

Q: What makes Mahua cocktails unique, and why do you believe people should choose them?

A: Mahua is a light spirit, with an alcohol by volume (ABV) typically not exceeding 35%. It offers something fresh and exciting to explore. Its delicate, accessible palate makes it far from harsh, thanks to its flower-based ingredients. This makes it particularly appealing to those who may not enjoy stronger alcoholic beverages. Mahua also provides an excellent foundation for cocktails, allowing a broader audience to experience its unique qualities. Its novelty presents an opportunity for discovery. Furthermore, as a native Indian spirit, it deserves our support and recognition.

Making Mohua the Next Global Wine Icon with the GI Tag
Making Mohua the Next Global Wine Icon with the GI Tag

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