Kishore Motwani, Founder and Director of Intagartek India Pvt. Ltd., stands as a trailblazer with over 35 years of expertise in apparel and allied product manufacturing. He has established a formidable reputation, having successfully set up over 500 facilities across India and internationally. His specialty lies in delivering comprehensive turnkey projects that encompass civil, machinery, process, and textile production expertise.
As a guest faculty at NIFT and other prestigious institutions, Kishore also mentors the next generation of fashion industry leaders, significantly contributing to the field’s advancement.
In an exclusive conversation with The Interview World, Kishore Motwani discusses the key drivers behind the Indian textile industry’s growth over the past three decades. He shares insights on the evolving global perspectives of the Indian market and advocates for an advanced curriculum to meet current industry demands. Furthermore, he emphasizes the importance of adopting new technologies in the apparel industry. Here are the key takeaways from his insightful interview.
Q: As a consultant, how would you assess and explain the key factors that have driven the growth of the Indian textile industry over the past three decades?
A: In the past, workers in the textile industry operated without the conveniences and technologies we take for granted today. They had no workstations, no washing machines, and no modern ironing equipment. Everything was done manually, which made the work environment challenging and less efficient. This lack of infrastructure extended to basic amenities, with inadequate provisions for safe drinking water and insufficient restroom facilities.
The landscape has drastically changed with the rise of compliance standards. Compliance has become a cornerstone of modern industry operations, particularly in the textile sector. Major global brands now prioritize compliance when selecting their industry partners, focusing heavily on worker safety and environmental standards. This shift is driven by an increased awareness of ethical practices and the demand for higher quality and safer working conditions.
Previously, these brands issued orders based on their priorities without stringent compliance requirements. Now, compliance is non-negotiable. It starts with the safety of the workers, including fire safety and maintaining a suitable working environment. For example, ensuring that workplace temperatures do not exceed 35 degrees Celsius has become a standard requirement. To meet these standards, I have implemented several measures, including installing air-cooling systems, ensuring access to pure water, and providing adequate restroom facilities with 25 toilets per 100 people.
These compliance measures have revolutionized the industry. Companies like Richa Global and Shahi Exports, which once had turnovers of around Rs. 50 crore, have now grown into major players with turnovers reaching Rs. 10,000 crore. This remarkable growth is a direct result of their adherence to strict compliance standards. I played a pivotal role in this transformation by establishing Richa Global’s first factory in Gurgaon. Gaurav International, another beneficiary of these improvements, now operates 50 factories. My efforts facilitated the relocation of factories from areas like Mayapuri and Okhla to Manesar and Gurgaon, resulting in over 300 factories across the NCR region, all adhering to compliance standards. I specialize in turnkey projects, ensuring full compliance from the outset.
My approach contrasts with that of architects who often draw references from residential projects, lacking the specific expertise required for industrial setups. My background includes international projects, which has equipped me with a broad perspective and deep understanding of global standards. For instance, I established India’s first powerhouse and Tata’s guest house on Prithviraj Road. From Tata, I learned the importance of uncompromising quality. Tata’s philosophy of rejecting anything less than perfect is reflected in the expectations of today’s buyers. They demand flawless products, with even minor defects meticulously addressed.
This high standard of compliance has become the norm. Companies have adapted and grown, driven by the necessity to meet these rigorous standards. For example, JCPenney, one of the toughest buyers, requires strict compliance with 70 specific points. Meeting these standards is mandatory for securing orders. As a result, the industry now employs highly qualified professionals, many of whom have been trained at NIFT, where I conduct postgraduate classes. This shift underscores the technical complexity of modern garment manufacturing, which is no longer a domain for laypersons.
Buyers now reject orders for even minor defects, and timely deliveries are crucial. Delays result in penalties, such as a 10% discount. While these challenges have been significant, the industry has navigated through them and emerged stronger. The adherence to stringent compliance standards has driven substantial growth, transforming the industry into a global powerhouse.
Through dedication to compliance and quality, the garment industry has achieved remarkable progress. This transformation not only improves working conditions but also drives economic growth, positioning companies to compete effectively on the global stage.
Q: How is the global perspective shaping views on the Indian textile market?
A: Recently, I spoke with someone regarding the surge in infrastructure projects along the Yamuna Expressway, particularly in Greater Nevada. Many of my friends are setting up factories in this area. They believe now is the opportune time due to the newly available facilities and the increase in orders.
These developments have significantly benefited from the exposure provided by the recent textile exhibitions. Although I have returned after many years, it is clear that businesses must now prioritize learning and adaptation. Maintaining quality and adhering to delivery dates is crucial. Discipline among personnel is essential. For instance, if shipments are booked and vessels are unavailable, delays occur, leading to containers being held up, which wastes valuable time.
Q: Considering your extensive experience teaching at NIFT and other esteemed institutes, do you believe the textile curriculum needs to be updated and made more advanced to meet current industry demands?
A: Absolutely. I conduct classes for postgraduate students because of my industrial experience. They invited me to bridge the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge. My module, which takes 10 days, includes practical lessons like understanding how a washing machine works.
Despite their graduation, textile students often lack practical knowledge. They are taught by the same teachers using outdated textbooks without any real-world updates. I have visited top institutions worldwide, including FIT in the USA, and observed that they also use old machines. However, I believe faculty members should accompany students during internships to understand industry requirements firsthand.
I emphasize the importance of managing minor defects and ensuring timely delivery, which are crucial for business success. Indian workers are hardworking and capable of securing business, but they struggle with quality and compliance, affecting timely sales.
Q: What is the Apparel Industry’s stance on adopting new technologies?
A: Once we inform them and they understand, I must demonstrate a factory’s operations. Suppose I provide factory compliance; they replicate it. Consequently, many people visit us, leading to significant international development. We must recognize and appreciate their efforts rather than criticize. They are working hard, and the younger generation, educated abroad, now manages easily. Previously, a pattern master oversaw all factory needs. Now, qualified individuals run the factories, resulting in thriving business operations.
