Odisha’s GI-tagged sarees stand as living testaments to the state’s rich textile heritage, seamlessly blending tradition, craftsmanship, and cultural identity. Each weave—be it the Sambalpuri Ikat, Berhampur Patta, Habaspuri, or Kotpad—embodies centuries of artisanal mastery, passed down through generations. These sarees are more than just fabric; they are artistic expressions of Odisha’s deep connection with nature, mythology, and folk traditions, brought to life through intricate patterns, vivid hues, and distinctive motifs.
Sambalpuri Ikat showcases unparalleled precision with its complex tie-and-dye technique, where patterns emerge on threads before weaving, creating mesmerizing geometric and traditional designs. Berhampuri Patta, draped by temple priests and Odissi dancers, exudes elegance with its signature temple-border patterns. Habaspuri, a rare weave from Kalahandi’s tribal belt, revives an ancient tradition through motifs inspired by nature. Kotpad sarees, dyed naturally using extracts from the aal tree, champion sustainability with their eco-friendly craftsmanship.
Beyond their aesthetic and cultural significance, these handwoven marvels represent Odisha’s resilience and artistic brilliance. The GI tag not only safeguards them from imitation but also ensures fair recognition and market value for the artisans. As global demand for sustainable, handcrafted textiles surges, Odisha’s GI-tagged sarees hold immense potential to carve a niche in contemporary fashion while preserving their authenticity. Supporting these weaves is not just about honouring heritage—it is about empowering the skilled artisans who keep this timeless craft alive.
In an exclusive conversation with The Interview World, Amrita Sabat, Managing Director of Sabat Exports Pvt. Ltd., delves into her company’s offerings, the distinctive appeal of GI-tagged sarees, and the surging global demand for these heritage weaves. She also sheds light on the growth opportunities for Odisha’s handloom industry on the world stage. Here are the key takeaways from her insightful discussion.
Q: Can you provide an overview of Utkalamrita, highlighting your brand’s identity and the range of products you offer?
A: At Utkalamrita, we celebrate Odisha’s rich handloom heritage by showcasing its diverse weaves. While many associate Odisha primarily with Sambalpuri sarees, the state boasts an incredible variety of indigenous textiles. As a thriving hub of traditional weaving, Odisha offers an array of authentic handlooms, including Dhalapathar, Habaspuri, Bomkai, Kotpad, Khandua, Gopalpur Tussar, Ikat, Sambalpuri, Berhampuri Patta, and Patachitra.
We take immense pride in creating the world’s first Odisha Handloom GI store—a one-of-a-kind destination that brings together these exquisite weaves under one roof. As an authorized user of the Odisha Ikat GI tag, we ensure that every GI-tagged masterpiece finds its rightful place in our exclusive GI Hall. Here, we meticulously organize each handloom by its GI designation, offering an immersive experience that highlights their uniqueness and authenticity.
At Utkalamrita, we don’t just sell sarees—we preserve a legacy, empower artisans, and celebrate Odisha’s unparalleled textile craftsmanship.
Q: How many GI tags has Odisha received for clothing, and could you list them along with a brief explanation of each?
A: Odisha boasts nine handloom-related Geographical Indication (GI) tags, and we proudly engage with all of them. Among these GI-tagged sarees, Habaspuri stands out for its exquisite fish motifs, a signature design that enhances the elegance of its sarees. Dhalapathar, another exceptional weave, is not only used for sarees but also for curtains and fabrics, showcasing its versatility. Women across Odisha adorn themselves with the beautifully crafted Dhalapathar sarees.
Berhampur Patta, woven in Berhampur—the Silk City of South Odisha—is celebrated for its superior silk quality. These sarees embody the region’s rich weaving tradition and meticulous craftsmanship. Moving west, Sambalpuri Bandha sarees captivate with their stunning Ikat patterns, a testament to Odisha’s mastery of tie-and-dye techniques.
Gopalpur Tussar sarees, crafted in Jajpur district, are another gem of Odisha’s textile artistry. This region is known for producing high-quality Tussar silk, used for both sarees and dress materials. Additionally, Patachitra—traditionally a hand-painted craft—has been seamlessly integrated into saree designs, adding an artistic touch to handwoven textiles. Bumkai sarees, another GI-tagged treasure, are intricately woven in both Western and Southern Odisha, blending tradition with sophistication.
Kotpad handloom, deeply rooted in tribal traditions, is renowned for its organic dyeing process using natural root-based dyes. Woven by the Mirgan tribal community, these cotton fabrics feature intricate tribal motifs in earthy hues. Every Kotpad saree and textile piece embodies cultural heritage, sustainability, and masterful craftsmanship.
Khandua sarees, revered in Odisha’s handloom legacy, hold deep cultural and spiritual significance. Traditionally draped on Lord Jagannath, these sarees are woven from fine silk or cotton and adorned with Sanskrit verses and intricate Ikat patterns. Their vibrant colors and lightweight texture make them both exquisite and deeply symbolic.
Odisha Ikat sarees, also known as Bandha sarees, exemplify the state’s expertise in resist-dyeing techniques. Crafted in regions like Sambalpur, Bargarh, and Sonepur, these sarees feature striking geometric and curvilinear patterns. The intricate double Ikat weaving process, mastered over generations, highlights Odisha’s unparalleled textile artistry and craftsmanship.
Q: What makes these GI-tagged sarees unique, and what are their key USPs?
A: Each GI-tagged handloom possesses unique characteristics that set it apart. Sambalpuri sarees, for instance, are renowned for their exceptional double Ikat weaving, a defining hallmark of the craft. This intricate tie-and-dye technique, executed with precision, elevates Sambalpuri textiles to a league of their own.
Dhalapathar sarees feature a distinctive weave, unmatched by any other. Their exclusive craftsmanship makes them truly one-of-a-kind. Meanwhile, Gopalpur Tussar sarees stand out for their rich lustre, a result of being processed in the mineral-rich waters of the Brahmani River.
Every handloom carries its own signature quality, woven into its fabric through tradition, technique, and regional expertise.
Q: What is the global demand for Odisha’s GI-tagged sarees, and how are they being received in international markets?
A: Globally, many people assume Sambalpuri is Odisha’s only signature weave. However, Odisha’s textile heritage extends far beyond a single style, offering a diverse range of exquisite handlooms. The world constantly seeks something unique, and our weaves never fail to captivate with their distinct patterns and craftsmanship.
This curiosity drives a growing interest in Odisha’s rich weaving traditions. To educate and engage audiences, we create informative reels, provide detailed explanations, and even offer live video calls. Through these efforts, we ensure that people not only admire but also understand the artistry behind each weave.
Q: Do you source these products directly from artisans, or does your company have its own manufacturing unit?
A: In every village, weavers remain deeply engaged in their craft. Sometimes, we provide designs, and they bring them to life with precision. We also suggest colour palettes to align with specific creative visions. Other times, they create their own weaves, and we carefully select the finest pieces. This collaborative process ensures a perfect blend of tradition and innovation.
Q: While these GI-tagged sarees are well-known and widely used within Odisha, where do you receive the majority of your orders from outside the state?
A: Across India, major metro cities like Mumbai, Bengaluru, and Kolkata generate a high demand for our weaves. Beyond India, the United States leads in orders, followed by Canada, Singapore, and Malaysia. Our craftsmanship attracts customers from diverse regions, reflecting a growing global appreciation for Odisha’s rich textile heritage.
Q: What growth opportunities do you foresee for GI-tagged sarees and textiles?
A: Growth presents significant challenges, primarily due to the influx of counterfeit products in the market. Many customers struggle to differentiate between authentic and fake weaves. Even when they recognize the difference, some still opt for cheaper imitations. This not only undermines the integrity of Odisha’s handloom industry but also creates obstacles for genuine entrepreneurs like us.
As dedicated handloom sellers, we refuse to deal in duplicates, polyester, or synthetic alternatives. However, sustaining authenticity comes with its own set of challenges. Scaling up requires both a steady supply of high-quality weaves and substantial capital to invest in procurement. Balancing these factors while preserving the legacy of true craftsmanship remains our biggest hurdle.
